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Watch care for your LIV Watch

Thank you for your vote of confidence in purchasing one of our fine Swiss timepieces. You have just joined a rebellious, individualistic lot of watch fans, enthusiasts, freaks, and people who love good value for their money.

Even though every LIV Watch is designed to last you through a lifetime of adventures, there are some things you ought to do once in a while to make sure your watch is always at its best.

Read your quick start card and our online manual

Ugh, who has time for reading manuals anyway? What a bore. We understand that time is precious. With that in mind, we supply a quick start card with our watches that cover the basics such as time, day, and date setting.

Please read it as you prepare your new treasure to adorn your wrist and garner looks of envy. You can also access the manual here.

Winding your watch

At the time of writing this helpful guide, LIV Watches only offers automatic and quartz movements. Fans who purchased a quartz watch can skip ahead to more relevant sections because you don’t have to wind a quartz watch. Well, you can pretend, but it isn’t necessary.

Time for a little horology

Automatic watches offer wearers the luxury of converting their natural moments into power to wind the mainspring. If this is your first automatic, here’s a little horology for you.

Turn your watch over. If you have an exhibition case back (a sapphire crystal that shows off your impressive Swiss movement), you will see a half-moon shaped piece, called the rotor, that moves as you move the watch.

Go ahead, give your watch a side to side shake. The spinning of the rotor is winding your mainspring. Pretty cool, eh? Cool and very green too. But that’s another topic for another day.

My automatic has stopped! Now what?

A drawback to an automatic movement is that it will run down if not worn regularly or kept in a winder. Automatic movements have what are called power reserves. This is a rating in hours that tells you how long the watch will run if it is left off your wrist with the mainspring fully wound. Typically, power reserves range from 36 – 48 hours.

Here’s how to get an automatic up and running:

Note: Take your watch off. It is never a good idea to wind a watch or set the functions like day and date with the timepiece on your wrist. It puts upward force on the stem and over time can lead to damage.

Some automatics can be manually wound. Here’s how to find out if you have that movement.

  • Pull the crown out to the first position. Won’t pull out? Unscrew it first then pull it out.
  • Turn the crown clockwise. Do you feel some resistance like tiny gears turning and perhaps hear some sound? You have a movement you can manually wind! Give it 10 – 15 turns to jump-start the watch then set your time, day, date, etc.
  • Don’t feel anything? You can only wind your watch by motion. Shake it back and forth several times, 20-25 ought to do it. This will put power in the mainspring allowing you to set your time, date, etc.


Hint: Hold the watch firmly — no need having it fly out of your grip while doing this and breaking some priceless family heirloom.

  • Return the crown to its closed position, screwing it down all the way if it is that type. This maintains your water resistance rating. Well, the watch’s resistance. A screw down crown doesn’t do anything for your water resistance.

Using a watch winder

Eventually, you may get the bug for a watch winder, especially if you have more than one watch with an automatic movement. These are a great addition for two reasons:

  • They keep the watch you aren’t wearing fully wound and ready to take its turn on your wrist.
  • Mechanical movements have tiny bits of oil where gears meet plates at rotational points. When a watch is idle for extended lengths of time, the oil can coagulate. The only impact is with time-keeping accuracy. And, it isn’t going to happen over a few weeks. Especially with newer synthetic oils. Still, it’s a good reason to justify the purchase to the family CFO, if you get my drift.

Winders are not complicated. They have one or more “heads” which are cylinders with pillows inside. You’ve seen a pillow already; your LIV Watch arrived on one.

Basic models run clockwise and counterclockwise. This is important because some watch movements should only be wound one direction (unidirectional) and others can be wound in either (bidirectional).

Here are four examples which, by the way, happen to be movements LIV Watches uses:

Operating your winder

Following the winder’s owner’s manual, yes, we know, get going by:

  • Securing the strap or bracelet firmly around the pillow,
  • Inserting it all the way into the winder head, dial pointing straight out,
  • Set the winding direction,
  • Set the turns per day (if your winder has that function), and
  • Power it up, making sure your watch stays comfortably and firmly in position. 

Adjusting the bracelet

LIV Watches come with straps and bracelets that comfortably fit up to a 23cm/9” wrist. If your bracelet is too large, you have three options:

  • If you have the proper tools, adjust the bracelet yourself.
  • Enlist a fellow fan or watch freak who has the proper tools and have them adjust it.
  • Have your jeweler adjust it.
  • These options work for battery changes too!


It is quite simple with the proper tools. So, if you plan of expanding your collection of watches with bracelets, you might consider investing in a kit. These kits will also come with the tiny screwdrivers you need to replace the batteries in your quartz LIZ Watches.

Hint: Keep the links you remove, and their pins in your LIV box should you need to add them back for any reason.

Caution: Your warranty does not cover scratching the IP coating on either case or bracelet while sizing. You’ve been warned!

Cleaning your watch

Watches do not require a lot of cleaning unless you are into mud runs and other “up close and personal with nature” pastimes. The following sounds like we’re telling you to baby your baby. Well, why not? Your watch has your back on each adventure!

  • LIV Supplies a microfiber cloth with each of its timepieces. This is great for the occasional touch up of crystal and case.
  • To clean the crystal, first make sure the crown is pushed down or screwed into place, depending on your watch style. Don’t want water sneaking past the crown’s seals.
  • Use a soft cloth and a dish of mildly soapy water. Dip the cloth into the soapy water, ring or press out any excess water, and gently wipe the face. You can also use a cotton swab.
  • Do not scrub or put pressure on your watch face while cleaning. If stuff is really caked on, take a bit off at a time.
  • For bracelets, use the same mildly soapy water and a jewelers’ cleaning brush to clean the links lightly. A toothbrush may be too harsh and scratch your bracelet.
  • Clean leather, silicone, rubber, nylon, or cloth straps with a soft, damp cloth. Do not saturate the strap. Let the strap air dry on a clean cloth or paper towel.
  • Be careful not to rub fabric straps with a paper towel, or you’ll get white fuzz in the fabric.


Hint: Do not:

  • Use sandpaper, steel wool, and wire brushes - all are horrible cleaning choices.
  • Run the watch through the wash - it might get the strap clean but is not advisable.
  • Use ultrasonic jewelry cleaners.
  • Use harsh solvents.
  • Just a little humor to see if you are reading this piece!


Water-resistance primer

Class, the first order of business is to remind you that water resistance does not = waterproof. Are we clear? Okay, to maintain your LIV masterpiece in prime working order, do not wear it:

  • While water skiing, tubing, or any activity where you and your watch are being dragged across some body of water by mechanical means rated in multiple horsepowers.
  • In the shower, seriously, it's a bad idea.
  • In saunas, even dry ones, and steam rooms while wearing your LIV watch. The heat and steam impact your watch differently than other kinds of water. Plus, the 316L stainless steel gets really hot and uncomfortable.

In other words, never expose your watch to any situation where it is hit by water under pressure. 

Summary: Water under pressure will penetrate our best seals. Water pressure created by depth will not. It’s physics. Here’s a blurb from

 When a liquid is at rest, meaning that it is not flowing, we can determine its pressure at a given depth known as hydrostatic pressure. The way we determine this is through an equation: P = rho * g * d, where P is the pressure, rho is the density of the liquid, g is gravity and d is the depth.

See what you can learn when you become a LIV Watch fan? So, feel free to dive with your watch to its rated depth, but only if you are qualified for that dive.

Otherwise, lower your watch on a sturdy line of the appropriate length. At least your LIV watch has gone that deep now! Imagine the cred when you step up to the bar, nonchalantly flash your LIV masterpiece, and say to nearby admirers, "This baby's been to 100 m." This is another joke, folks. 

Caution: Make sure you push the crown all the way in or screw it all the way down before attempting any dives.

Here are some handy water resistance stats to guide your water adventures, based on the rating of your LIV timepiece:

  • 30 meters (100 feet): Splashes of water and rain are OK. Don’t shower or submerge.
  • 50 meters (165 feet): These are OK in the shower, just don’t get too steamy.
  • 100 meters (330 feet): Swimming and light snorkeling are OK.
  • 150 meters (500 feet): Snorkeling is OK now.
  • 200 meters (660 feet): Skin diving, free diving, or hanging out underwater for a while is OK.


Maintaining water resistance

There is not much to do here. The key elements are the gaskets, those rubberized rings that form a watertight seal where the crystal, case back, and crown meet the watch case.  Chronographs have gaskets inside the chronograph pushers, too.

The only gasket you can inspect with ease is the case back gasket on quartz watches. When replacing the battery, make sure the gasket is not damaged, broken, or torn. Before screwing the watch's case back down, make sure the gasket is in its proper position, most commonly a small groove in the case itself.

While in the water

  • Always make sure the crown is pushed in entirely and screwed down if you have a screw-down crown before going near water.
  • Do not turn the crown while the watch is in or under water.

After you get out of the water

  • If you swim in saltwater, rinse your watch in fresh water immediately afterward. Do not use a garden hose nozzle or a fire hose, if one of those is handy. Remember about water under pressure!
  • If your watch has a bezel, twist the bezel while you run it under fresh water, so that salt doesn’t stick and corrode the metal.
  • Dry it thoroughly after rinsing or other water exposure.


Fortunately, you have invested in a premium watch, so problems are going to be few if any. Here are a couple of tips to help you through possible situations.

Your watch stopped running

Don’t panic! This is a piece of cake.

  • Is it quartz? Probably a battery.  Review the section for adjusting the bracelet. Just substitute the word “battery” for “bracelet,” and all those options apply!
  • Is it an automatic? See our section on jumpstarting it.

If your watch still does not run, contact us for immediate support and resolution.

Your second-hand skips several seconds at once

This is a convenient feature of some quartz movements. As the battery starts to die, the second hand starts moving in multiple second jumps. Please follow our friendly advice on battery replacement above!

Your date on your watch is wrong

You probably have it set 12 hours ahead or behind.

Here’s how to tell. For this experiment, we are going to assume it is 9:17 AM and your day/date function is not matching up with the calendar.

  • Pull the crown to the time setting position and start to advance the time.
  • Keep an eye of the day/date functions.
  • As you get towards 12, these will begin to change if your watch thinks it is tracking PM time. You are 12 hours ahead.
  • If the day/date functions don't change, your watch thinks it is tracking AM time, and you are likely 12 hours behind.
  • Once you’ve determined the problem, reset your watch.

Note: Some watches have a fast date change function. Check your manual or quick start card for details. You usually pull the crown out to the second position on a three-position movement or the first on a two-position model. Turn the crown clockwise or counterclockwise to set the date.

You still need to account for the twelve-hour window. When the day/date turns over, the watch thinks it is in the AM part of the day.

Your chronograph doesn’t reset

Pull your crown out to the furthest position to reset your chronograph.  Press both pushers simultaneously. Release both pushers. You should see the large chronograph seconds hand make a sweep and stop at the 12 o’clock position. Push the crown back in and screw it down if it’s a screw-down crown.

Your crystal is foggy

Condensation can form in situations of rapid temperature changes, or when the crown is not entirely closed in environments with a lot of steam or water. Condensation should go away on its own, as long as you keep the crown tightly closed and screwed in.

If the condensation in your watch does not seem to be disappearing after a week (or) if the watch has water inside of it, please contact us.

Ta-da, you’re done!

That’s it for care and feeding of your LIV Watch. If you are having a problem not covered in this guide, please contact us, and we’ll set things right.